Rendevouz in wordpress

This is to let you know that i have started a new blog in wordpress.

The address is

http://panathinaeos.wordpress.com/

See you there!

Ristorante "da Ottavio", Piazza Navona, Rome, Italy

I went to this restaurant by following a process of choice that was rather instinctive. It was a hot Sunday in early June 2008 in Rome, after many hours of sightseeing and before goint to the airport to catch a flight. I was wandering around Piazza Navona and had rejected most of the places that were open, until I saw "da Ottavio". It attracted me because it was not full of tourists and was projecting the image of a down to earth place. So I gave it a try, and did not regret it.

The exact address is Corso Rinascimento 17, opposite the Senate. The website address is http://www.ottavioalcorso.com/.

The first positive sign was the fact that they have their own house wine bottled. It shows some respect to the customer and the wine. I tried the white and was not disappointed.

For a starter, I selected the "Antipasto di Mare". It was fresh, juicy and tasty, as it should be. It contained octopus, squid, and small shrimp (gamberetti).

For the main course I selected "Fettuccine Fiori di Zucca, Zafferano e Mazzancolle" (flowers of zucchini, saffron and prawns).

The dish was excellent. The pasta was fresh, the quality of the prawns was top, and the saffron with the flowers of the zucchini gave the dish colour and sweetness. Definitely a dish I will try to cook at home.

Overall, "da Ottavio" is a nice place to have a "honest" meal, at a very reasonable price in the center of Rome.

Osteria di San Cesario, San Cesareo, Lazio, Italy

I visited the Osteria in late May 2008, almost straight from Fiumicino. It was early for lunch, and I had the pleasure of meeting "Sora Anna" in the dining room. Anna Dente Ferracci continues the tradition of her family and cooks the way she learned from her mother and grandmother.

The trip to San Cesareo takes about 45 minutes from Fiumicino. Once you are in the center of the small town, it is very easy to find the Osteria, just across from the Carabinieri.

Mrs. Ferracci stated that she comes from a family that for five generations has been in the meat business.

I asked her to serve a lunch menu that would be representative of her cuisine and allow me to continue after lunch with my work in Rome.

Pork was prominent in the Amuse Bouche. In the middle you can see salumi di guanciale with gorgonzola. The bread squares with the green top on the right have the distinct taste of mint, peper and the aroma of top quality lard.

What came as a first dish (and I was so absorbed that I forgot to take a photo) was a typical Roman dish "Pasta e brocolli in brodo d' arzilla".

Arzilla belongs to the family of skate fish and its taste is oily and strong, but it was balanced by the brocolli.

What came next is "trippa in salsa verde", which was like a dream, topped with pecorino.

Fettuccine with with marinated pork was served next, with a prominent balance between the acidity of the wine and the fat of the meat. Top quality pecorino topped the serving.

Another pasta dish followed, with local funghi whose parfume I can still smell. The sauce was very light, with just a touch of olive oil, parseley and garlic. All pasta in the OSteria is hand made and, of course, fresh.

The champion of the pasta dishes was - quite deservedly - All' Amatriciana. It was done with lard and quanciale and had the personality of a winner.

Finally, and before I was ready to surrender, a divine dish "Animelle co i funghi porcini der Monte Algido" arrived. The sweetbreads came from veal and they tasted sweet like honey. The earthy tone of the funghi porcini cprovided the necessary counterbalance.

Enoteca Palatium, Rome, Centro Storico, Italy

This is a short report from my visit to Palatium in late May 2008, a "cool" enoteca that serves food in the historical center of Rome, via Frattina 94. After you shop and shop in via Condotti, or visit the museums ot whatever else you are doing in the center of Rome, take some time out (before 1430 hrs) and visit Palatium for lunch.

The place was crowded, all the people near my table were speaking Italian. No sign of tourists, which was good!

I started with stuffed zucchini flowers, which were tender and sweet. They were stuffed with a white mild cheese that accompanied the taste of the flower, without overwhelming it.

I continued with veal tartar, that was served without egg and the other regular trimmings. Just lemon, pecorino and light greens. The dish was out of this world. The meat taste was clear, fresh and the firm texture of it made the pleasure complete. I was afraid that it would be a rather boring dish, given the absence of taste enhancing materials that accompany a Steak Tartar. I was wrong! Top quality veal does not need anything more than just some lemon to cut the protein surge, and a light cheese to provide a salty stimulus to the palate. I was moaning with pleasure and as I was finishing the dish, I saw that in the next table two extremely well dressed ladies who were having just a salad, were rather amused by the sight of their overweight neighbour enjoying so much a pile of raw miced meat.

Enoteca Ristorante Vino e Camino, Bracciano, Lazio, Italy

On a cloudy Friday at the end of May 2008, I visited the "Vino e Camino" Ristorante, taking the lead from Slow Food's :Osterie d' Italia.

The restaurant is located in the small town of Bracciano http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bracciano approximately 45 km northwest of Rome. It is in Via Mazzini, in the central Piazza of the town, where the Castello Orsini is. There are a few parking places in the Piazza, so you can your luck there.

The place is also known as "enoteca", due to the nice selection of wines they have.

I started with a selection of Italain Salumi, served with a cold sald of farro, filetti di sgombro e pomodorini. Farro is a type of cracked wheat that is produced in Lazzio. It was boiled and then seasoned in the salad mix. It was juicy and tasty, while the combination of the fish oils with the pomodorini created enough tension in the dish. This was countered by the endless sweetness and smoothness of the lardo in the center of the plate, with the salumi providing intersting diversions.

I continued with a "Passatta di scorfano e maltagliati al nero di seppia". In addition to tomato, I think they used quite a bit of "farro" for thickening the consistency. The dish had a sidekick of pimiento, that went quite well with the taste of the scorpion fish and was soothed by the pasta.

The main dish was "Involtini di lattuga con filetti di cernia e lardo di colonnata". Cernia is stone bass and was already lightly cooked before being used in the involtini.

The combination of lettuce and the lardo is always a winner, but I would have preferred that the lardo is added only after the involtini reach room temperature.

I had chardonnay from Sicily with the meal, and it went surprisingly well with everything. Even the lardo!

The service is nice, friendly, and the place is full of Italians enjoying a good meal with very high value for money. Next to me there was a table of 8 who had the passata and the involtini. We all left together, and their cars' license plates where all Roman.

Given that it takes about half an hour to reach Bracciano from Rome, it is no wonder that the Romans enjoy Vino e Camino's food offerings.

Crassopoleio, Velvento, Polifitos, Greece

I visited the tavern in late April, during the Easter holiday.

This is a tavern in the central square of the very pleasant small town of Velvento, near Polifitos, in Greece. Its name in Greek means a place where they sell wine. This is not the only thing they do.They also sell food.

The tavern offers standard Greek cuisine dishes prepared with skill and fresh ingredients. This combined with the excellent selection of local bottled wines (we had a "Voyiatzis 2004 Red") makes the meal a very good experience.




Some highlights of the dishes we tasted follows.











Fried green peppers, served with olive oil vinegar and garlic. A standard taste.





The stuffed vine leafs (Sarmades in the local dialect) were hearty, tasty and appetizing. In other parts of Greece they make them a lot smaller, with the emphasis being on the taste of the leafs, whereas here the emphasis is on the filling.



The pork knuckle was the best dish of the meal. Tender, juicy, tasty meat that was melting in your mouth, no knifes needed here!


The lamb was tender and tasty, but overshadowed by the pork. Under different circumstances, it would have been the star.



Overall, a place I will revisit.

Special thanks to Haris, who after two years in California has returned to his hometown and enjoys the life of the tavern.

Dimatis Tavern, Aghios Dimitrios, West of Mount Olympus

I visited the Dimatis tavern in late April 2008, during the Easter Holiday.

This is a tavern owned and operated by the Dimatis family, who own a farm with animals a few kilometers down the road on the western slopes of mount Olympus in Greece.

The tavern is in the center of the small town of Aghios Dimitrios, and unless you know about it, you may pass by without any suspicion that this sleepy rural place can offer you immense gastronomic pleasures.

The first good sign of the quality of the place is that they only serve bottled wine, and they know a lot about the local production. We had a Merlot from Naoussa, Vaeni 2004, which was outstanding.

The next good sign is that you do need a menu to order food. There is a menu on the table, but if you indicate that you are a guest and willing to try whatever the Host serves you, you do not need to say more.

The dishes start arriving and you shortly enter a world of solid earty pleasures.

The eggplants and diced onions were melting in your mouth, with strong background tomato and garlic taste, complemented by grated salty yellow cheese (kefalotiri) that has melted on top of everything else.

The mushrooms were grilled and sprinkled with coarse sea salt, crushed garlic, parlsey, olive oil and lemon juice. Perfectioin in simplicity.



The lightly sauteed lamb offals (kidney, liver, lung, heart, sweetbreads) were sweet and mildly acid, and seasoned with salt and oregano. I could not recall in my gastronomic memory a better lamb dish anywhere in the world.

The deer ribs were grilled on charcoal and presented with a slice of lemon and fried potatoes. The meat was juicy and very light, with aromas of oregano and thyme.

The value for money is outstanding.

Epilogue: Go and visit the Dimatis tavern, you will enjoy it.

Ristorante La Bastiglia, Spello, Umbria, Italia

Introduction: After visiting Assisi, I wanted to go to a place nearby and have a good lunch, away from tourists and the hot sun of Umbria. I found "La Bastiglia" from the Michelin Red Guide and after 20 minutes relaxed ride in the Umbrian countryside, I arrived in Spello.




The resturant is in the hotel with the same name, a renovated building with many levels and nice views. The lunch clients were primarily people staying at the hotel. Although this a one Michelin star restaurant, I was impressed by the "natural" way the staff accomodated some big tables of tourist families with children.

I ordered the menu of the house "Consistenze e contrasti in equilibrio" and did not regret it!



Plenty of breads and sticks in various shapes!



Amuse bouche




Scallop



Foie gras



Frascarelli are a type of Umbrian pasta. Here they were served with Tuna Roe, Sage, Clams and White Beans.



Cannelloni



Pigeon



Souffle



Dolci

Trattoria La Buca, Zibello, Emilia Romagna, Italia

Introduction: I have read about "La Buca" in the eGullet forums, and I am grateful to this wonderful community for all the information and inspiration. You can find a wealth of information about culatello di Zibello in eGullet.



Visit: Lunch, July 2006

Food concept: Traditional local cuisine. In addition to Culatello, which is prepared in house, you can taste divine tortelli di zucca, and eel with peas from the local rivers.


Execution of the menu dishes: Very Good


Divinity factor: The hand made pasta.

Wine: Good local wine list. I asked the hostess for a local red that would acompany the food, and it was quite good. Discrete and subtle.

Service: Friendly


















Clientele: Italians and many many tourists. Miriam became a celebrity after the publication of the book "Heat" by Bill Buford. Miriam told me that she had guests from many countries, as a result of this publication.


Location and ambience: In the village of Zibello, just follow the signs (or your navigator).









Chef/Owner: Miriam is a friendly and lively lady who knows how to treat customers. She told me that the trattoria was opened by her grandmother, who came to Italy from Brasil at the beginning of the 20th century.

Value for money: Very Good.












Appetizer: Culatello di Zibello




First: Tortelli di zucca and tagliatelle




Second: Eel and peas
(Anguilla con piselli)